The Techniques

​​​​​​​There are no machines in our workshop. We practise only time-honoured leathercraft techniques using traditional hand tools. It's these self imposed limitations that make our items truly unique labours of love.

We hand cut every item one by one from a skin of natural leather; punch every hole individually; hand sew every stitch and colour every item using traditional oil dyes giving each its own unique tone. Every Leather & Thread item is 100% handmade one by one.

All of our handmade leather items are hand sewn using a traditional style of stitching known as the saddle stitch. This time honoured technique involves using two needles attached at either end of the piece of thread, passing each needle all the way through the pieces of leather being sewn at every hole in order to bind both pieces together.  This forms an extremely strong stitch that is far more durable than the machine lock stitch, which is used to manufacture most leather goods produced today. The machine lock stitch does not pass the thread all the way through the pieces of leather being sewn. Instead it uses an under-deck mechanism called a looper, which traps the thread from the needle above forming a loop or ‘chain’ in each hole that then holds the two layers of material together.

The hand sewn saddle stitch though much more time consuming and labour intensive is far stronger, much more durable, and far less likely to fail. The two threads bypass each other instead of trapping each other in the stitch-hole meaning there’s no friction and, as a result, far less likelihood of breakage. In the unlikely event a saddle stitched thread does break, the line of stitching will not unravel like a machine lock stitch. Instead of having to fork out for a new wallet, you can look forward to many more happy years of use ahead.

Burnishing is the process of compressing the leather fibers of cut edges, smoothing and polishing the edge to produce a fine, glossy finish. Unburnished edges of cut leather have a sharp unrefined look and will naturally burnish with use, taking on colour and character. We burnish the edges on our items when we feel it will add to the items functionality and design, we do this by our own Leather & Thread process using a cocobolo hand burnisher finally sealing the edge with natural beeswax.
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